Every 2000 miles (3200km) the engine oil should be changed. Every 250 miles (400km) the oil level should be checked/topped up. Original oil specified was a mono-grade SAE 30, or for hotter climates (over 90 deg. F./32 deg. C.) an SAE 40. It cannot be stressed too strongly that modern high detergent oils, and especially multigrades, should not be used in an old design of engine. Tales of woe, and sometimes catastrophic disaster (!) in old engines generally, are often traced back to incorrect oil. It is worse still if a change to modern oil is done on an engine that has not recently been rebuilt. Accumulated sludge may be dislodged and then block oilways. Even in a clean 'new' engine, oil consumption may increase, and piston-rings might stick/break.
The AC engine was not fitted with a full-flow oil filter. There is a gauze filter to try to prevent any large debris from entering the oilways, but this has nothing to do with removing the fine metal dust that a modern filter deals with. Later engines (from about 1951/52) had a Fram by-pass filter mounted on the exhaust manifold. I believe that its element should be renewed every 10000 miles (16000km). Replacement filter element was the Fram C3, or equivalent such as Greyfriars 530P.
Some engines have since had full-flow filters installed, but it is important that the flow of oil has not been impaired by this modification. It is open to question whether this mod. will allow an increase in mileage between oil changes. Oil life is also influenced by contamination by acid and water, plus the amount of dust drawn in passed the (rather primitive) air-filters.
Engine (Cooling System)
The AC's cooling system is not pressurised, therefore it runs at a cooler temperature than more modern systems, that is, around 75 deg. C. A certain amount of coolant is lost via the radiator overflow pipe, and so it needs regular checking and topping up. The alloy engine castings are prone to corrosion, and so an anti-freeze with corrosion inhibitor should be in use all year round. Coolant capacity is 17 pints (9.6 litres).
The water-pump design is definitely not the best part of an otherwise superb engine! The pulley is forward of the ball-race bearing, and this effectively places some extra load on the plain bearing at the rear of the spindle, and increases its wear rate. The water seal is a carbon gland, which to some extent relies upon centrifugal force to keep the water from escaping. For that reason, leakage will be greatest at low revs. If rebuilding a pump, the carbon gland needs quite a bit of bedding in before it seals well. This can be done on a workbench using an electric drill. Many owners have tried modifications to improve the design, but I don't have details of any of the successful ones. As an added precaution, I used to carry a short fan-belt in the car, which can be used to drive the fan, but not the pump, just in case the pump bearing fails (through water leakage). Reconditioned pumps are now available from AC engine specialists. See the links page.
The thermostat is of the bellows type. Over time/usage, it will tend to open at too low a temperature, or else stay open. Assuming that the bellows are not leaking, I understand that it is possible to correct this by re-soldering the valve onto its stem to adjust its position.
The original top radiator hose is of an unusual design, with a large convolution. This is because the thermostat outlet and the radiator inlet are very close together, and movement of the engine would place excessive load on the pipes if a conventional hose is fitted. I never did find a supply of these while I was running my car.
Engine (Fuel System)
The fuel pipe exits the tank from its underside, which makes it awkward if blockages occur. If the tank has rusted during long idle periods, then the pipe may block if the tank filter is not in good condition. This filter is a soldered brass gauze assembly. Early cars (up to about 1950) also had a low mounted fuel filter on the bulkhead, which is below the tank level. If it has to be disconnected, the front/left of the car should be jacked up first.
The electric fuel pump is an S.U. type AZX 1332. These are reliable just as long as they are in frequent use. If you ever dismantle the pump and refit/replace the diaphram, remember that it needs to be tensioned by applying current to the solenoid while the casing screws are tightened up evenly. Repair kits and new pumps are still available, although some components differ from the originals.
The S.U. carburettors are type HV2 Thermo. Parts and repair kits are available from Burlen Fuel Systems. Very little wear takes place in the throttle-spindle holes in the casings, so renewing the brass spindles should take up any wear. I would recommend oiling the throttle spindles occasionally. One potentially dangerous problem with the float chambers, is that if completely drained at any time, the float valve may stick open. I found this to be even more likely with the replacement (modern) valves installed. The solution is to place washers under the float to prevent it from dropping to the bottom. Old washers from the carburettor jets are ideal.
Every 2000 miles (3200km) the engine oil should be changed. Every 250 miles (400km) the oil level should be checked/topped up. Original oil specified was a mono-grade SAE 30, or for hotter climates (over 90 deg. F./32 deg. C.) an SAE 40. It cannot be stressed too strongly that modern high detergent oils, and especially multigrades, should not be used in an old design of engine. Tales of woe, and sometimes catastrophic disaster (!) in old engines generally, are often traced back to incorrect oil. It is worse still if a change to modern oil is done on an engine that has not recently been rebuilt. Accumulated sludge may be dislodged and then block oilways. Even in a clean 'new' engine, oil consumption may increase, and piston-rings might stick/break.
The thermostat is of the bellows type. Over time/usage, it will tend to open at too low a temperature, or else stay open. Assuming that the bellows are not leaking, I understand that it is possible to correct this by re-soldering the valve onto its stem to adjust its position.