Made by Hardy Spicer. Every 3000 miles (4800km) apply grease-gun to 3 greasing points.
Borg and Beck single plate clutch, 9A6G Type BB9/25. Every 5000 miles (8000km) apply grease-gun to either side of clutch withdrawal shaft.
Every 5000 miles (8000km) the oil should be changed. After a further 2500 miles (4000km) the oil should be checked/topped up. This gearbox uses the same oil as the engine, a mono-grade of SAE 30 (or for hotter climates, with ambient temperature over 90 deg. F./32 deg. C. use SAE 40 engine oil). Quantity 3 pints/1.7 litres. There is an oil-filler/dip-stick located to the left of the transmission tunnel, accessible through a small hatch under the carpet.
This "Moss" gearbox features the old type of synchromesh on 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. Even without wear, it is not as effective as more modern synchromesh, so double de-clutching when changing gear is often the order of the day.
Windscreen Wipers: Occasionally add a drop of oil to the wiper-arm pivot, says the AC manuals. Quite how one does it without getting oil on the rubber grommet, I'm not sure! The wiper mechanism is packed with a special grease, and this tends to go hard and dry after many years. The flexible rack also wears out, just where it meshes with the wiper-arm gears. Eventually the mechanism will jam while in use - probably on a very wet night, as happened to me! A temporary cure (at least for the earlier non-self-parking wipers) is to refit the rack so that a different area meshes with the gears, but one can no longer park the wipers off the screen. The later self-parking wipers park on he screen and need cranked wiper-arms to do so neatly.
Trafficators: Lucas SF80 style (originally SF34N model for early ACs). Every 6000 miles (9600km) apply a tiny drop of SAE 30 oil to the arm pivot (with the arm raised). Oil mustn't get anywhere near the electrical contacts at the back of the arm. Early manuals recommend applying a light oil with a brush to the catch-pin on the underside of the arm near the pivot. Apparently the early trafficators had a felt lubricating pad that a little oil was applied to. The arm top cover had to be removed to gain access to the felt pad. Replacement bulbs are of the festoon type, Lucas no.256, 12 volt, 3 watt.
Replacement bulbs are as follows:
- Head Lamps (RHD cars) - Lucas no. 354, 12 volt, 42/36 watt Prefocus.
- Head Lamps (LHD cars) - Lucas no. 301, 12 volt, 36/36 watt Prefocus.
- Head Lamps (RHD and LHD cars Europe) - Lucas no. 370, 12 volt, 44/40 watt Prefocus.
- Sidelamps (for the earlier Lucas 461/1A lamps) - Lucas no.207, 12 volt, 6 watt, SCC.
- Sidelamps (for the later Lucas L488 type lamps) - Lucas no. 222, 12 volt, 4 watt, MCC.
- Stop-Tail Lamps (for the earlier Lucas ST461 lamps) - Lucas no. 380, 12 volt, 6/21 watt.
- Stop-Tail Lamps (for the later Lucas L488 type lamps) - Lucas no. 361 (superceded by Lucas 380), 12 volt, 6/18 watt, SBC.
- Panel Lamp - Lucas no. 987, 12 volt, 2.2 watt, MES.
- Interior Lamp - Lucas no. 207, 12 volt, 6 watt, SCC.
- Trafficators - Lucas no. 256, 12 volt, 3 watt, festoon type.
- Number Plate Lamp - Lucas no. 989, 12 volt, 6 watt MCC.
- Ignition Lamp - Lucas no. 970, 2.5 watt, MES.
The above side and tail lamp lenses are the originals. Note that the lenses are virtually flat and the red glass is very dark. There were various other shapes of lenses fitted to L461 lamps for other makes of car.
Electrics: I have 4 versions of the schematic diagram and none of them match my 1949 AC! The earliest diagrams show that only a single rear number-plate lamp was fitted (subsequently changed to 2), and that 2 interior lamps were fitted to early cars. A lamp was also a feature of the engine bay. Early cars, including mine, did not have a horn relay, so the full current passes through the horn switch (don't hold it down for too long or else the wires might over-heat!). The original horns (with a circular trumpet) changed to model WT614 (rounded triangular trumpet) in the early 1950s. Cars up to about 1950 had the Lucas RF95 type of control box. This incorporates 2 fuses. Some cars also had a separate fuse for the side and tail lamps. Subsequently, later types of control box were fitted, and a separate fuse box with 4 fuses. Early cars, including my '49 car, had no earth wires for the sidelamps.
A smear of petroleum-jelly should be applied to the snap-connectors to prevent corrosion.
<< Page 1 ****** Page 3 >>